Weekly Brief
Five brands widened their own definitions this week — most of them by buying time, not buying media. The picks below organize around one editorial question: when a brand outgrows its noun, what does the operating model owe the new definition?
Dan Coe
May 15
Five brands widened their own definitions this week — most of them by buying time, not buying media. The picks below organize around one editorial question: when a brand outgrows its noun, what does the operating model owe the new definition?
TL;DR — five brands outgrowing the noun they were filed under.
- The North Face just bought the U.S. Ski Team for eight years. The Rapha playbook now has a second instance, in a second outdoor category — and on the longest horizon any apparel brand has bought in the sport.
- Huckberry just grew up. The first identity refresh in 15 years is built for storefronts, not screens — the system catching up to the stores Huckberry already opened.
- Salomon is inventing "gravel running." The $250 GRVL Concept is the proof. The textbook play almost no brand actually executes: don't enter the noun your competitors own — name the verb they haven't.
- Pas Normal Studios' women's-gravel bet just printed a receipt. Klöser's 90km solo and Villafañe's repeat at The Traka were the asset the operating model was built to produce.
- On's founders are back. Q1 says why. Apparel grew 50%+ at constant currency, hit 30% of revenue in China, and lifted EBITDA guidance. No longer a footwear brand.
The North Face just bought the U.S. Ski Team for eight years. The Rapha playbook now has a second instance, in a second outdoor category.
On Tuesday, The North Face and U.S. Ski & Snowboard announced an eight-year apparel partnership running through the 2034 Salt Lake City Games — two full Olympic cycles, beginning with the 2026–27 season. TNF replaces Kappa as the official performance apparel partner across all eleven disciplines (alpine, cross-country, freeski, freestyle, ski jumping, snowboard, and Para), and the supply scope covers every layer of the kit: outerwear (Futurelight, Cloud Down, Gore-Tex), training wear, base and mid-layers, accessories, bags. The commercial downstream is in the announcement too — a consumer-facing U.S. Ski & Snowboard-inspired collection drops Fall 2026, on TNF.com and through select retailers. Two things make this a strategic move and not a sponsorship line item. The first is duration. Eight years is the longest horizon any apparel brand has bought in the sport. Two Games inside the window — French Alps 2030 and Salt Lake City 2034 — means two narrative arcs, two medal hauls, two consumer cycles to translate team kit into commercial product, with the second Games landing on home soil. The second is the template. Rapha codified the apparel-brand-owns-the-elite-tier playbook in pro cycling: multi-year exclusive team kit (Team Sky, then EF), content series (Gone Racing) extending the brand far past the jersey, switchout consumer collaborations (the Palace Giro kits) that turned race weeks into product launches. The Rapha playbook now has its second instance in a second outdoor category — and TNF is running it harder and longer than Rapha ever did. For CMOs whose sponsorship line items reset every two years and whose merchandise plans don't connect to them, this is the configuration that turns a sport sponsorship into a brand operating system.
Huckberry just grew up. The rebrand is the moment a DTC studio walks into a real store.
Huckberry's first identity work in 15 years went public this month — by Portland-based This Design (Rivian, Giro, Nike, K2) — and the studio's own case study describes the inflection point in three lines: "New physical retail in major cities. A growing portfolio of house brands. A community that had followed them from scrappy digital startup to a cultural institution." This Design's framing is "the careful, considered work of evolution," not a reinvention — and the stated outcome is "a kit of parts that allows the team to scale across digital, retail, and print with a unified, sophisticated voice." That clause is the brand-strategy decision wrapped in design language: Huckberry is no longer building only for a screen. Co-founders Andy Forch and Richard Greiner opened the first Huckberry store in Georgetown in August 2025 (1239 Wisconsin Ave NW; they describe it as profitable, "way above plan"), a second in Chicago's Lincoln Park in November, and have committed to 2–3 stores per year. The new tagline — "All Ways Forward" — and the system's House-of-Brands organizing logic both read as identity work for a company that is now, structurally, a retailer and a house of owned brands rather than a publication-with-checkout. For CMOs whose brand systems were built for the e-comm era and now have to survive on a wall, in a sewn label, and across the editorial surfaces of a media-led retailer, the Huckberry rebrand is what an honest conversion looks like: nothing about the brand is dramatically different, and the system is now built to scale across every surface the next ten years will demand.
Salomon is inventing a category called "gravel running." The GRVL Concept is the proof.
On May 6, Salomon launched the GRVL Concept — $250, limited release, two carbon "energyblades" inside a PEBA supercritical-foam midsole, an integrated debris gaiter, and an aesthetic that reads as streetwear from twenty feet away. The shoe sits at the top of Salomon's growing gravel running range (alongside the Aero Blaze 3 GRVL and Aero Glide 3 GRVL) and is the most aggressive product expression yet of a strategic bet CEO Guillaume Meyzenq has been making for two years: that gravel running is its own discipline, not the awkward middle child between road and trail. The shoe was conceived in Girona, the Spanish town that has become Europe's gravel cycling capital, where former Tour de France pro Christian Meier runs Overland Running Provisions and has built a community of runners moving over the same surfaces the cyclists already own — three days the Salomon design team spent with that crew shaped the brief. Meyzenq has been explicit that the GRVL franchise is doing what no prior Salomon push has done: unlocking the run category for the brand on its own terms, rather than as a trail-running specialist crossing over. Read alongside Salomon's $2B 2025 and "gorpcore is over" posture, this is the franchise the brand is building the next phase on. For CMOs watching a crowded category, the move is the textbook play almost no brand actually executes: don't enter the noun your competitors already own — name the verb they haven't.
Pas Normal Studios is building a brand on the side of the sport everyone else underbuilt. The Traka was the receipt.
Two weeks ago we read PNS becoming lead sponsor of The Traka, Santa Vall, and Ranxo — paired with the operational Traka Force programme (sanitary materials at aid stations, course-side toilets, women's-visibility infrastructure) on top of the Accelerate global qualifier — as a Danish road-racing brand consciously rebasing on gravel, with women's racing as the brand-building unit. The Traka ran April 29–May 3 and delivered the receipt. Sofia Gómez Villafañe took the Traka 200 back-to-back. Rosa Klöser won the Traka 360 with a 90-kilometer solo breakaway and a 13-minute margin — the dominant ride of the weekend across both fields. The week's other news on the same brand: Romy Kasper, a 37-year-old veteran of the women's road peloton, has ended her road career to join PNS Racing for 2026 with a full gravel focus, joining a roster that already includes Karolina Migoń (Unbound 2025 winner), Cecily Decker, and Wendy Oosterwoud. Read the assets together — event sponsorship, operational programme, race results, athlete roster — and the bet stops looking like "support women's gravel" and starts looking like be the brand of women's gravel. The category is the territory everyone else underbuilt; PNS is staking the flag while the ground is still soft. For CMOs running a diversity deck and a sponsorship deck on parallel tracks, the lesson is that they work best when they're the same deck.
On's founders are back. The first quarter under them shows the brand is now an apparel company that happens to sell shoes.
On's co-founders David Allemann and Caspar Coppetti returned as co-CEOs on May 1, succeeding Martin Hoffmann (who stays on as an advisor through March 2027). The first earnings call under them landed eleven days later on Tuesday. The headline number was a record Q1: CHF 831.9 million in net sales, up 14.5% year-over-year, DTC +16.4%, wholesale +13.3%. The strategic number was elsewhere. Apparel grew more than 50% at constant currency in the quarter, sits at roughly 6% of revenue companywide and already 30% in China, and is the engine behind On's raised full-year EBITDA margin guidance (now 19.5–20%, up from 18.5–19%). The Zendaya co-created collection that launched April 16 — On's first co-created range, footwear and apparel sequenced together as a single proposition with Spike Jonze and Law Roach in the creative — is the brand artifact for the shift; the 18-to-24-year-old cohort posted the largest single-quarter increase in DTC share in On's history. Coppetti's framing to CNBC was that nothing changes on the strategy. The read from the brand side is sharper than that. Hoffmann ran the IPO-and-scale phase; the founders are back to run the next one, and the brand they're running now is no longer a footwear brand in the Nike/Adidas/Hoka frame. It's an apparel-and-footwear brand that uses shoes as the cultural fuse and apparel as the operating model. For CMOs at footwear-anchored brands wondering when (or whether) to expand into apparel, On just made the comparable case study explicit, with the founders' return as the underline.
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